How to make preserved Lemons

In my quest for culinary knowledge I have been playing with culinary ideas from Morocco. For those not familiar with Moroccan cuisine, it is the cumulating influence by Morocco's interactions and exchanges with other cultures and nations over the centuries. Moroccan cuisine has been subject to Berber and Mediterranean influences.  The cooks in the royal kitchens of Fes, Meknes, Marrakech, Rabat and Tetouan created the basis for what is known as Moroccan cuisine today. Of all of the culinary ideas coming out of Morocco, preserved lemon exemplify the flavor and subtleties of Morocco’s refined culinary traditions. Mourad Lahlou, author of Mourad New Moroccan (Artisan Publishing, 2011) goes as far as saying:

“…..that preserved lemons are Morocco’s greatest culinary contribution to the world. No, I’m going all the way and say this: they’re Morocco’s’ greatest contribution to the world, period.”

I have been making and experimenting with preserved lemons in salads and marinades all summer. I feel compelled to share this treasure with you by sharing Mourad’s best all-purpose method for making preserved lemon by packing them in salt and the immersing them in lemon juice. Enjoy!

The jar

Use a 1 quart canning jar with a two piece screw-on lid or a clamp on glass lid and rubber gasket either one of them will give you a tight seal. The kind with the neck that is slightly narrower than the sides is ideal. You can sterilize the jar by boiling water or just run it through dishwasher right before you start. Either way, make sure its bone dry. 

The lemons

Using whole lemon choose firm and plump lemon. You will need twice as many as you will preserve because you’ll use half of them for juice. Just to be safe buy a few extras to ensure that your jar is packed very tightly and filled completely with juice. Before juicing, you might want to use a zester to strip off the zest (from only the lemons you’re juicing, not the ones you are preserving). Spread the zest on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and put it in freezer. Once frozen, transfer to a resalable plastic bag and you will have a ready supply of lemon zest).

The Salt

Use kosher salt because I has a clean iodine-free flavor. 

The Process

For one quart batch you will need:

1. About 6 (141 gram) lemon for preserving
2. About 6 more lemons for juicing or enough to make ½ to (108 grams) Kosher salt

Step 1: Scrub the 6 lemons you will be preserving with a vegetable brush under cold running water, they dry them very thoroughly. If you plan to zest the other 6 lemons, scrub them now.

Step 2: Pour the salt into a large bowl. Stand the lemon stem end down on a cutting board and use a sharp knife to cut down into it as though you were going to cut it in half, stopping ½ inch above the stem. Now make a perpendicular cut, again stopping short of the stem, so the lemon is quartered but still intact.

Step 3: Holding the lemon over the bowl, spread the four quarters open and pack in as much salt as you can, allowing the excess to fall back into the bowl. Don’t be shy-you’re not just salting here, you are really jamming in a solid pack of salt, up to 2 tablespoons per lemon. Put the lemon cut side up (to keep the salt from spilling out) in the jar and repeat with as many lemons as the jar will hold, pushing them down hard so they are squeezed in tightly. (If you cant fit the 6th lemon into the jar, you can add it the next day, when the lemons are softer.) Put the lid on the jar and leave it on the counter overnight. The next day the lemons will have softened. Then use a clean spoon to push them down and add another salted lemon or two if they fit. Its ok to add only a partial lemon if that is all that fits.

Step 4: Juice the remaining lemons a few at the time, pouring the juice into the jar until it is filled to the brim and the salted lemons are completely submerged. Put the lid on the jar, turning it until it’s just a finder tight (over tightening can keep air from escaping and cause the lid to buckle) or clamp it closed if that’s the kind of jar you are using. Put the jar in a dark spot, like a cupboard or pantry, not in the refrigerator. For the next few weeks, turn and shake the jar once a day to redistribute the salt that has settled to the bottom. Add more lemon juice if you notice that the lemons are no longer submerged. That’s it. If you notice some bubbling around the edge of the jar lid, don’t worry. That’s a normal part of fermentation. 

One month later….

It’s time for the big reveal. If the lemons are floating at the top of the liquid, they may have turned brown a bit and that is fine. Cut a piece of a lemon and pot it in your mouth and be ready to be amazed by the softness and subtlety of the flavors. Be ready to be wowed. 

Storing: 

Once you have opened your jar of preserved lemons, top off the liquid with 1/8 inch thick layer of olive oil. You can store the jar at room temperature for several months, though the lemons will continue to soften. They are at their creamiest at 3 to 4 months. 

Ideas for use:

· Olives: toss a bit of minced preserved lemon rind with olives and a splash of olive oil. Warm in a sauté pan, or serve at room temperature

· Quick Salsa Verde: Make a topping for fish, chicken, or steak tossing chopped toasted blanched almond, parsley and olive oil with minced preserved lemons

· Salads: Dice preserved lemon rind and add to salads

· Vegetables: Add diced preserved lemon ring to braining greens, carrots, broccoli, and other vegetables

· Couscous: Toss some finely minced preserved lemon rind with parsley and into couscous just before serving. 

· Vinaigrette: add the bringing liquid sparingly to vinaigrettes and dressings

· Pasta: Add diced preserved lemon rind, mild goat cheese and olive oil in cookie orzo

· Use as a base for marinades (in combination with olive oil, cumin, coriander, chili powder, ginger and saffron, great on roasted chicken).

· Drinks: try a little minced preserved lemon rind and/or brining liquid in Bloody Mary or other cocktails.

· Deserts: Add a little minced preserved lemon in small amount of ice cream or gelato.

Indonesian Chicken Curry

I don't know about you but I love a good curry. There are as many version of curries as there are cultures in Asia. This version comes from Indonesia. You can find all of the ingredients needed at Kelowna's Asian Market. Very yummy.

Brown Rice, Lentil, and Spinach Soup

After  the excesses of the Holiday season, January is a good time to adjust to a lighter menu and set new habits for the new year.  I hope you enjoy this healthy soup and a way to start the new year.

1⁄2 lb. sweet Italian sausage

Heat 1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
1 tsp. cumin seeds,
1⁄2 tsp. dried thyme
1 dried chile de árbol
12 cups chicken broth
1 cup long-grain brown rice, rinsed
3⁄4 cup brown lentils, rinsed

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

                                                                       1⁄2 lb. spinach, coarsely chopped

1. Remove sausage from its casings. Heat oil in a 5-quart pot over medium-high heat; add sausage and cook, stirring and breaking it up into small pieces, until browned, about 6 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sausage to a plate.

2. Add carrots, celery, and onions, along with cumin, thyme, and chile de árbol. Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 10–15 minutes. Add reserved sausage, chicken broth, rice, and lentils and season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until rice and lentils are soft, about 45 minutes. Stir in spinach and cook until wilted, about 1 minute.

SERVES 6 – 8

Classic Quebec Tourtiere

Growing up in Quebec Tourtiere was a must have during the holiday season.

Ingredients

·        1 and 1/2 pound lean ground pork

·        1 onion, diced

·        1 clove garlic, minced

·        1/2 cup water

·        1 1/2 teaspoons salt

·        1/2 teaspoon dried thyme, crushed

·        1/4 teaspoon ground sage

·        1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

·        1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

·        1 recipe pastry for a 9 inch double crust pie

Penne with Tomato-Sage Sausage Sauce

I am a fan of Italian Sausage; I have attempted to make my own with reasonable success. I am always looking for ways to use them. I always have some in my freezer for those mid week days when my family need a quick and tasty meal. The following recipe meets those criteria. 15 minutes? Yes, probably, after you prep everything and prep wont take long.  You won't be disappointed and you will find your family asking for more.

Bourbon-Orange-Glazed Ham

From Fine Cooking 96, pp. 50

October 22, 2008

The glazed ham here makes great sandwiches. To give your guests that option, serve with biscuits (store-bought or homemade), horseradish cream spread, and orange-maple mustard (for recipe, see leftovers section below). 

Spinach Lasagna

(Lasagne Verdi al Forno)

SERVES 6

For a truly authentic lasagne see our Spinach Pasta Gallery for an illustrated, step-by-step guide to making the pasta called for in this dish. Of course you can use store bought noodle, I sometime use pre-cooked dry lasagne noodle from the local Italian deli. I recommend to be daring an try your hands at fresh pasta, it is not as hard as it first appear. I must stress that if you are going to try, do not be afraid to fail, you may have to a few times. The effort will pay off.

Pad Thai

A few years ago my wife and I took our kids and my mother in law to Thailand. I have been a fan of Thai food for many years and I was really excited at the thought of eating the real thing. Well I was not disappointed. I loved walking through the back alley of Bangkok and see how the average Thai lives. It was feast for the eyes with display of fresh produce every where. Wherever we went there were food stands offering an array of Thailand’s best dish.

Wonton Soup

This recipe is form Saveur Magazine, one of my go to food publication. Wonton soup is a popular favourite and is not very difficult to make at home. I keep wonton in my freezer to use up for a quick snack.

Jamie Oliver’s answer to macaroni and cheese.

Main courses | serves 4 - 6

This is Jamie Oliver’s twist on the old-school frumpy Anglicized dish of macaroni cheese. Using these four different cheeses together, each one with its own characteristics works really well. For the classic finish, it has to be popped under the grill to crisp up and go brown on to. Once you see how quick it is, you won’t be making any béchamel or claggy old sauces for a long time.

how to cook the best prime ribs

Prime ribs & Yorkshire Puddings

Following is the best method I found for preparing a prime rib with Yorkshire Puddings. Follow these easy steps and you will impress your guests. Methods is from America’s Test Kitchen, one of my go to source for cooking information.Ask the butcher to cut the meat off the ribs, but make sure to keep the ribs because the meat is tied back onto them for roasting. Let the roast stand at room temperature for 2 hours before roasting helps it cook evenly. Remove the roast from the refrigerator about 5 1/2 hours before serving.

Serves 10 to 12

INGREDIENTS

· 1	first-cut beef rib roast (ribs 9 through 12, about 8 pounds), meat removed from bone, ribs reserved, patted dry
· 1	1/2 pounds oxtails
· 1	Tablespoon tomato paste
· 3	medium onions , cut into eights
· 3	tablespoons vegetable oil
	Kosher salt (preferably) or table salt
· 2	tablespoons ground black pepper
· 1	cup red wine , medium-bodied
· 1	3/4 cups low salt beef broth, preferably homemade.
· 1	3/4cups low salt chicken stock , again preferably homemade
· 2	sprigs fresh thyme

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Remove roast and ribs from refrigerator and let stand at room temperature 2 hours. After an hour, adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Rub oxtails with tomato paste and place in heavy-bottomed, burner-safe roasting pan. Toss onions with 1 tablespoon oil, and then scatter onions in roasting pan. Roast until oxtails and onions are browned, about 45 minutes, flipping oxtails halfway through cooking time. Remove from oven and set roasting pan with oxtails aside; reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees.

2. When roast has stood at room temperature 2 hours, heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Meanwhile, rub ends and fat-side of roast with remaining 2 tablespoons oil, then sprinkle with 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (or 3/4 teaspoon table salt) and pepper. Place roast fat-side down in skillet and cook until well-browned, 12 to 15 minutes; using tongs, stand roast on end and cook until well-browned, about 4 minutes. Repeat with other end. Do not brown side where ribs were attached. Place roast brown side up on roast bone side down in roasting pan, pushing oxtails and onions to sides of pan. Roast 1 hour, then remove from oven and check internal temperature; center of roast should register about 70 degrees on instant-read thermometer. (If internal temperature is higher or lower, adjust total cooking time.) Return roast to oven, and prepare Yorkshire pudding batter now (if making, see following recipe), and cook 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 hours longer, until center of meat registers about 122 degrees for rare to medium-rare or about 130 degrees for medium-rare to medium (see illustration 3) . Transfer roast to cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees for Yorkshire pudding.

3. While roast rests, spoon off fat from roasting pan, reserving 3 tablespoons for Yorkshire puddings; set roasting pan aside while preparing puddings for baking. While puddings bake, set roasting pan over 2 burners at high heat. Add wine to roasting pan; using wooden spoon, scrape up browned bits and boil until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add beef broth, chicken broth, and thyme. Cut twine on roast and remove meat from ribs; re-tent meat. Add ribs, meaty side down, to roasting pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is reduced by two-thirds (to about 2 cups), 16 to 20 minutes. Add any accumulated beef juices from meat and cook to heat through, about 1 minute longer. Discard ribs and oxtails; strain jus through mesh strainer into gravy boat, pressing on onions to extract as much liquid as possible.

4. Set meat browned-side up on board and cut into 3/8 -inch-thick slices; sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve immediately, passing jus separately.

Individual Yorkshire Puddings

Serves 12

Prepare the Yorkshire pudding batter after the beef has roasted for 1 hour, then, while the roast rests, add beef fat to the batter and get the puddings into the oven. While the puddings bake, complete the jus. An accurate oven temperature is key for properly risen puddings, so check your oven with an oven thermometer before making this recipe. Work quickly to fill the muffin tin with batter, and do not open the oven door during baking.

INGREDIENTS

· 3	large eggs , at room temperature
· 1 1/2	cups whole milk , at room temperature
· 1 1/2	cups unbleached all purpose flour (7 1/2 ounces)
· 3/4	teaspoon salt
· 3	tablespoons beef fat

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Whisk eggs and milk in large bowl until well combined, about 20 seconds. Whisk flour and salt in medium bowl and add to egg mixture; whisk quickly until flour is just incorporated and mixture is smooth, about 30 seconds. Cover batter with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours.

2. After removing roast from oven, whisk 1 tablespoon of beef fat into batter until bubbly and smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer batter to 1-quart liquid measuring cup or other pitcher.

3. Measure 1/2 teaspoon of remaining 2 tablespoons beef fat into each cup of standard muffin pan. When roast is out of oven, increase temperature to 450 degrees and place pan in oven to heat for 3 minutes (fat will smoke). Working quickly, remove pan from oven, close oven door, and divide batter evenly among 12 muffin cups, filling each about 2/3 full. Immediately return pan to oven. Bake, without opening oven door, for 20 minutes; reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Remove pan from oven and pierce each pudding with skewer to release steam and prevent collapse. Using hands or dinner knife, lift each pudding out of tin and serve immediately.

Duck Ragu

This is a dish I have cooked a couple of time, and it has already become a favorite around my house. Its from Mario Batali’s book, Molto Italiano. Its great with Penne, Rigatoni or Gnocchi, serves 4.

Thanksgiving Turkey with Italian Stuffing

Growing up in Quebec, turkey was something we ate at Christmas. Since I met my wife Heather I have learned to appreciate the rich tradition of the thanksgiving turkey; and every year I look foward to the process of preparing it. I usually start one week before, making my own bread and the stock I will be using. In a previous posting I describe how to guarantee a moist turkey by brining it: this time I am sharing with you the stuffing and the roasting method I have been using for years. The stuffing is made with Italian Sausage and Ciabatta bread. This stuffing doesn't stop at bread, sausage and the usual lineup of aromatic vegetables; it includes Marsala wine, fresh thyme and the optional chopped turkey liver to give it deep, rich flavor.

Stuffing ingredients:

• 14 cups Italian bread, like ciabatta, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes (about 3 loaves). Leave the bread out for 24 hours before using. I like to use slightly stale bread for stuffing. To learn to make Ciabatta click here.
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 2 lb. bulk sweet Italian sausage (or stuffed sausage, casings removed)
• 1 turkey liver, finely chopped (optional)
• 2 large yellow onions, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 5 large ribs celery, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 8 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1 Tbs. plus 1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves (or 1-1/2 tsp. dried)
• 1 Tbs. dried sage
• 1-1/2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 cup sweet Marsala wine

Pile the bread cubes into a very large bowl and set aside. Set a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the olive oil, half of the sausage, and the chopped turkey liver (if using). Cook, breaking up the sausage with a wooden spoon or spatula into 1/2- to 1-inch bits, until light brown, about 5 min. With a slotted spoon, transfer the sausage to the bowl of cubed bread; repeat with the remaining sausage. In the fat left in the pan, sauté the onions, celery, and garlic until the onions are translucent and just beginning to brown, 8 to 10 min. Stir in the thyme, sage, salt, and pepper, cook 1 min., and then add the mixture to the cubed bread. With the pan off the heat, carefully pour in the Marsala. Keep your face away from the pan as the wine will sputter. (It’s unlikely that Marsala will ignite, but if it does, just back off and let it burn for a few seconds until the alcohol has cooked off.) Set the pan over medium heat and bring the liquid to a boil, stirring to scrape up any flavorful bits in the pan. Boil for 2 min. and then add the Marsala to the bread mixture; stir until well combined. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.

For the turkey:

• One 12- to 14-lb. fresh turkey ( I prefer fresh and free range if available)
• 3 Tbs. melted unsalted butter or olive oil
• 2 Tbs. kosher salt
• 2 Tbs. dried sage
• 1 Tbs. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. ground nutmeg
• 18 to 19 cups Italian Bread Stuffing
• About 1 cup Stock, preferably homemade.

Prepare and stuff the turkey:

Heat the oven to 325°F. Rinse and dry the turkey. Rub it inside and out with the butter or oil and then season with the salt, sage, pepper, and nutmeg. Loosely pack the central cavity and the hollow under the flap of skin at the top of the breast with 6 to 7 cups of the stuffing, tucking the flap under the bird. Spoon the remaining stuffing into a buttered or oiled baking dish, about 9x13 inches; cover and refrigerate.

Set the stuffed turkey in a large roasting pan, tucking the wings under the bird. (If your roasting pan has a rack, you can use it, but it’s not essential.) Set the turkey in the oven to roast.

After 3 hours of roasting:

Remove the extra stuffing from the fridge and douse it with about 1 cup of stock. Cover the dish with greased aluminum foil and bake with the turkey for 1 hour, uncovering the dish for the last 15 minutes to brown the top. The turkey is done when a meat thermometer inserted into a thigh registers 165°F and the juices from the thigh run clear, about 4 hours in all (18 to 20 minutes per pound for a stuffed bird). If the skin browns too much before the turkey is done, cover the bird loosely with foil. If the turkey fails to brown evenly or sufficiently, use a pastry brush to paint the skin with some of the brown juices in the roasting pan. Remove the turkey from the oven, let it rest in the pan for 5 min., and then carefully transfer it to a platter. Tent loosely with foil and let it rest while you make the gravy.

Indian Cooking made easy

I was browsing the internet the other day looking for culinary inspiration. I stumbled into this cooking show curtousy of the BBC, it is called "Indian Cooking Made Easy". Indian cuisine is one of the world's greatest culinary traditions but, when it comes to cooking it at home, it can seem rather complicated and easier to pop to the local restaurent. In this new series, food writer and chef Anjum Anand is on a mission to show exactly how simple it is to cook delicious, healthy Indian food. Anjum travels the country, taking her message to a health spa, country fair, fire station and even a small Cornish village to show those who love Indian food, but have never cooked it before, everything they need to know. "This series is about demystifying Indian cuisine and its explosive flavours. It will change people's perceptions of Indian food so that anyone can contemplate eating or cooking this way at any time of the day and on any occasion," says Anjum. She starts with the basics of how to tell how hot a fresh chilli is, what the spices of Indian food are and what equipment to use. She also speaks to the experts who reveal the secrets of tandoori cooking, how to make the perfect samosa, bake delicious naan bread and make Indian cheese. Then there's the cooking, from delicious finger food ñ chilli chicken and succulent tandoori mushroom wraps ñ to a traditional lamb curry with a healthy dal, savoury semolina cake and bowls of tasty mango kulfi. At the end of each programme, it's down to the novices she meets to use their new-found knowledge to cook the food themselves under Anjum's watchful eye. Anjum shows how Indian food is for everyone and can be easy enough to make every day. "The fact is that home-style Indian food can be healthy, fun and light," she says. "It can be casual or formal, a meal or snack, comfort food, diet food, traditional or modern. To me, it is one of the world's greatest cuisines because it caters for all.

Fresh Tomato Salsa

Fresh Tomato Salsa

Summer is a time where we get invited to a lot of parties and barbecues. A food you are sure to find is the ubiquitous salsa, you know the kind, it comes in a jar from your local supermarket. Homemade tomato salsa is easy to make and once you try it you will never go back. Refreshing salsas are easy to improvise—simply balance the proportions of ingredients according to taste. Top burritos, tacos, enchiladas, nachos, chili, or bean soups; add to omelets and scrambled eggs; use in place of ketchup on hamburgers and sandwiches; spoon onto grilled pork, beef, poultry, and fish; dip chips; dollop onto fritters and savory pancakes.

Yields 2 cups

Ingredients

· 4 medium ripe tomatoes (about 1 lb.), cored, seeded, and finely diced

· 1/4 red onion, finely chopped

· 2 jalapeño or Serrano chiles, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

· 1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped

· 2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

· 1 Tbs. fresh lime juice

· 1 clove garlic, smashed and minced

· 3/4 tsp. salt, or to taste

· Pinch freshly ground pepper

---

Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Toss well and serve.

Variations

Roasted tomatillo and green chile: Arrange 1 lb. tomatillos *(husks removed), 1 fresh poblano**, 2 jalapeños, and 4 scallions on a foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and toss to coat. Broil until softened and dark in spots, about 12 min., turning once during cooking. When cool, remove the skin, stems, and seeds from the chiles. Dice all the vegetables and combine with 1/2 minced small onion, 1 minced clove garlic, 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, and salt and pepper to taste.

Tropical fruit: Dice and combine 1 large mango, 1 large papaya, and 2 small kiwis. Add 1 cup diced pineapple, 1/3 cup diced red bell pepper, 1/4 cup diced red onion, 1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves, 1 to 2 cored, seeded, and minced jalapeños, 1 Tbs. lime juice, and a pinch each of salt and cayenne.

Grilled corn, tomato, and chipotle***: Rub 2 ears of husked corn with olive oil and grill over medium-hot coals until slightly blackened, about 10 min. Grill 5 plum tomatoes until the skins are blistered and charred, about 8 min. Scrape the kernels from the cobs and dice the tomatoes. Combine the corn and tomatoes with 14 cup very finely diced red onion, 1 finely chopped canned chipotle chile, 2 Tbs. lime juice, 1 Tbs. extra- virgin olive oil, 1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano (or 2 tsp. dried), and salt to taste.

* The tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) is a plant of the Solanaceae (nightshade) family, related to tomatoes, bearing small, spherical and green or green-purple fruit of the same name. Tomatillos, referred to as green tomato (Spanish: tomate verde) in Mexico, are a staple in Mexican cuisine. Tomatillos are grown throughout the Western Hemisphere.^[

^{** The poblano is a very mild chile pepper originating in the State of Puebla, Mexico. Dried, it is called ancho chile.}

^{*** A chipotle (pronounced /tʃɨˈpoʊtleɪ/ chi-POET-lee; Spanish: [tʃiˈpotle]) is a smoke-dried jalapeño chili used primarily in Mexican, Mexican-American, Tex-Mex, and Mexican-inspired cuisine.}